Navegando por Assunto "Moda"

Agora exibindo 1 - 7 de 7

Acesso aberto (Open Access)
A indústria de confecção do vestuário na região metropolitana de Belém-PA
(Universidade Federal do Pará, 2008-09-29) PAULA, Daniel Farias; BASTOS, Ana Paula Vidal; http://lattes.cnpq.br/1992388595130579
Based on the neo-Schumpeterian and institutionalist theoretical approach, this study analyzes the expansion of the apparel and fashion industry productive arrangement in the Belém Metropolitan Region (BMR), state of Pará, and institutional tissue from 1991 to 2008. The study aims at analyzing the formation and development of local production, identifying the configuration and characteristics of the production structure and institutional support activities and the synergy between agents. It also analyzes how the forms of governance are constituted and the existing externalities and how these can dynamize the production arrangements development process. This study proposes to answer three questions: Why did not the clothing industry segment develop in BMR? How are the dynamics of the sector and the characteristics of technological innovation phenomena in the sector experienced by small and mid-sized apparel business owners in BMR? How do the two processes, modernization and precariousness coexist in the BMR apparel sector? The empirical research conducted represents 55% of formal employment in BMR. In this process, the non-existence of institutional actions prior to the researched period was observed and this limited the sector's scientific and technological evolution as well as the development of the production chain. This condition led atomized producers to low levels of synergy and representativeness. As a result, industry growth rates were very low and difficulties in finding qualified labor are pointed out as the major obstacle to industry development. Most of the existing companies are uniform producers, but over the past three years, an opening of companies dedicated to the manufacturing of fashion products has been observed. Despite the difficulty found by the industries in operation, a social movement was seen in the construction and expansion of technical knowledge and promotion of the productive arrangement driven by the desire to make fashion, and the action of the designers and institutions that promote this desire and transform fashion into "our thing". The development of fashion in Pará as a spontaneous movement and form of expressing local culture in a way represents the desire to insert local culture in the contemporary consumption context. Fashion is a mean to establish a relationship with the place that considers action in the construction of a local mythology. The issue of the places specificity is of most importance for the markets, therefore, it is necessary to take into account the importance and potential of a market filled with a large number of consumers avid for insertion and differentiation, emotionally tied to the place. Surveyed players point out that to stimulate the development of the textile-clothing production chain, more investment would be necessary in training labor that favors the development of activities already in operation, and that permit the expansion of investment feasibility in a sector of fundamental importance in the history of industrialization and the every day life of human beings in the contemporary capitalist world that has consumption as a fundamental myth. This study contributes towards a better understanding of the sector.
Acesso aberto (Open Access)
O artesanato urbano como valor agregado à Moda Autoral produzida na cidade de Belém-Pará
(Universidade Federal do Pará, 2014-06-30) MAIA, Maria Felicia Assmar Fernandes Correia; MANESCHY, Orlando Franco; http://lattes.cnpq.br/6198572031091761
The present research makes the relationship between urban handcraft an authorial fashion production in the city of Belém, in the state of Pará, Brazil, after the researcher has discovered that the wish to create fashion products with local identity has led the people of the region to search new local resources to make clothes and accessories with characteristics that could make them different in today’s globalized world, and that the difference is linked with the local culture. The research starts with the investigation of the interfaces of fashion, art and handcraft, showing that this last one can be considered one of the kinds of representation of the local identities. It also shows how the local fashion designers are trying to find their cultural roots in order to face the process of hybridization caused by the acceleration of history. Authors like Nestor Garcia Canclini, Zygmunt Bauman, Pierre Bourdieu e Gilles Lipovestsky give the theoretical support for the researcher’s perception that the access to a wide variety of goods, facilitated by globalization can make it easier to combine them and help designers create new things. Methodologically, the research has been developed by the analysis of the work of four fashion designers who have dared to add the value of handcraft with some local resources like tururi fiber, curauá fiber, fish leather and a new kind of rubber called encauchado to make clothes and accessories that can have original looks. Other authors like Stuart Hall, Lars Svendsen, Carol Garcia and Ana Paula de Miranda also contribute to the researcher’s conclusion that to create fashion production is to create behavior and in today’s market context, handcraft can be the great value that could be aggregated to fashion.
Acesso aberto (Open Access)
Gaby Amarantos, vestida para causar: interfaces entre moda e comunicação
(Associação Nacional dos Programas de Pós-Graduação em Comunicação, 2016-06) VASCONCELOS NETO, Dilermando Gadelha de; LIMA, Regina Lúcia Alves de
After the perception of a constant use of a communicational dimension of fashion in the researches that composes the fashion studies, mainly in the US and Europe, we propose to reflect on how some contemporary developments in the communication field contributes to stress some processes on the fashion studies. Especially because of a common preoccupation with the interactional/relational dimension on the two fields. Along with the presentation of our propose of interface, we dedicate to the analysis of the costumes used by the Pará’s singer Gaby Amarantos, due to point how this interface perspective applies to the study of empirical cases.
Acesso aberto (Open Access)
Interações, consumo midiático e sentido: uma proposta teórico-metodológica para a pesquisa em moda
(Associação Nacional dos Programas de Pós-Graduação em Comunicação, 2015-06) LIMA, Regina Lúcia Alves de; VASCONCELOS NETO, Dilermando Gadelha de
The paper proposes a theoretical and methodological sight to fashion from the standpoint of communication. Considering the insufficiency of the trasmissive model of communication, we try to demonstrate how the arguments developed after the interactionist model (Quéré, 1991; França, 2001, 2003) applies more specifically to the phenomenon of fashion. After that, we discuss how the studies in mediatic consumption offers a better methodological approach to the empiric research in fashion. We end the paper presenting the example of our current research.
Acesso aberto (Open Access)
A moda como objeto de informação: o caso do Movimento Feminista Punk Riot Grrrl
(Universidade Federal do Pará, 2015-09) CASTRO, Kedma Lima de; CASTRO, Jetur Lima de; OLIVEIRA, Alessandra Nunes de
Introduction: In considering the issue of fashion as an object of information, the study aims to present the behavior and attire characteristics of the punk feminist movement Riot Grrrrl as constituents of a singular language and discourse space and, therefore, subject to further investigations by the area of Library and Information Science. Method: This is an exploratory research of bibliographic and documentary base. Results: it presents the historical scene of punk feminist movement Riot Grrrrl within the punk background, analyzing the theme of feminism, the discussion of gender and its relationship with the overall fashion context. It was revealed that the Riot Grrrrls’ behavior and attire act as way of gender and political dissent. Conclusion: the visual reinterpretation of a punk feminist movement supported in their radical ideologies and their impact on the fashion world shows the representative nature of attire and behavior as emancipatory forms in the social, configured as discourse spaces and, therefore, as an information attribute.
Acesso aberto (Open Access)
Pensar a comunicação, repensar a moda
(Universidade Federal do Pará, 2016-03-30) VASCONCELOS NETO, Dilermando Gadelha de; LIMA, Regina Lúcia Alves de; http://lattes.cnpq.br/8158415442871989
This work address the interface between fashion and communication studies. We use the concept of interface developed by Braga (2004), which considers it as a cooperation among fields of knowledge that goes beyond the subordination of the assumptions of a field to the other, or the creation of a new field based on the assumptions of more consolidated fields. The interface concept presupposes that disciplines uses their assumptions to address specific research questions. To investigate the interface between the two fields of knowledge, we use the foucaltian archeology method (FOUCAULT, 2013a) and the “theoretical model of apprehension” of the communication process proposed in França (2001). In this context, we do the archeology of the fashion and communication discursive domain, seeking to perceive how they build their objects, concepts, themes and theories; besides of perceiving, specifically on the communication domain, the construction of the gaze directed to the communication process in the various historical moments of the filed development. Considering the recurrence of a concern with relation/interaction that is established among subjects and groups in the fashion studies, we utilize the assumptions of the relational model of communication (QUÉRÉ, 1991; FRANÇA, 2003) aiming to develop the interface between fashion and communication studies. We use two statements that immerge in the Pará’s scenario, whose analysis bases our research.
Acesso aberto (Open Access)
Sob medida: tipologias estratégicas de inserção do vestuário nas artes visuais
(Universidade Federal do Pará, 2011-06-30) CIRILO NETO, João; SOUZA, José Afonso Medeiros; http://lattes.cnpq.br/6045766440369156
According to Roland Barthes, the ordinary clothing is accepted as an object in the visual arts since the avant-garde experiments of the European modernism in the twentieth century. Thereafter, concepts and practices such as readymade and artist‟s clothing (künstlerkleid) respectively created by Marcel Duchamp (1887-1968) and Henry Van De Velde (1863-1957) will promote profound changes in art in that sense. The readymades will allow many everyday objects to enter spaces traditionally intended for works of art, which will lead as a result to the notion of artist's clothing, understood here as a subcategory of the readymade concept strictly concerning to garments. This study aims to examine the use and the relevance of the term artist's clothing as a category of or a resource for the modern and contemporary visual arts. Such an examination will explore the general aspects related to social and symbolic value of clothing, to offer typologies for the term artist's clothing based on the way tailor-made wearable items are used in a work of art or are conceived as art itself. Finally, in order to verify the validity of such a phenomenon and the proposed classifications in this study, the concept of artist's clothing is taken into account within the visual arts production in Belém, the capital of the state of Pará.