O acontecimento da comida: memória coletiva sobre produção, preparo e consumo de alimentos no Quilombo Jacarequara, no Nordeste paraense

Abstract

This dissertation examines the collective memory related to the production, preparation, and consumption of food in the Jacarequara quilombola territory, located in the municipality of Santa Luzia do Pará, in the northeastern part of the state, Eastern Amazon. The main objective was to understand how community memories record food practices linked to traditional agro-extractive production. The methodology involved literature review, statistical analysis, and the collection of primary data through 15 open interviews with elderly individuals and 59 semi-structured interviews with quilombolas of different genders and generations, as well as field observations conducted between 2023 and 2024. The narratives reveal that, in the past, greater land availability supported a more diverse agro-extractive food production, which shaped the variety and composition of meals. Food preparation was mainly carried out by women, based on local conditions, within the so-called extended kitchens — central spaces in the household dedicated to meal preparation. In these environments, clay utensils were predominantly used, along with mortars, gourds, and calabashes, while metal tools were used sparingly. Meals were typically prepared using large amounts of firewood from tree branches. Breakfasts commonly featured porridges made from tubers and fruits; lunches included crops from local fields and hunted animals; and dinners consisted of lighter dishes such as broths and porridges. Today, although food production for self-consumption continues, it is reduced, along with the use of traditional foods, due to various socio-environmental challenges. Despite being a titled territory, the community faces external pressures from expanding farms and monoculture plantations, compounded by the climate crisis. The loss of territory and environmental degradation, as remembered collectively, have led to a decline in food production and availability, posing risks of food insecurity and prompting changes in the quilombola food culture.